The appreciative mind will cherish this estate,not less for that which is local in its significance, than for that which is typical of the whole. It will desire to find itself equally at home either in the North or the South, either in the East or the West, nowhere a stranger among the birds and flowers of America, nowhere a stranger to plant lore and bird traditions…
For the present I desire nothing better than to reflect, if possible, this spirit of the North and of the South, as do the birch and the cypress: to communicate by description, but perhaps even more by wholly intangible means, a sense of certain regions…remember that they are parts of one and the same estate in nature.
After an endless procession of books on rambles in nature (a genre of which Abbott and Torrey are consummate masters), it was deeply refreshing to embark on this pair of books by Stanton Davis Kirkham (1868-1944) which appear to carry a theme of looking at differences between natural environments in the West, East, South(east), and North(east). The earlier of the two even carries the subtitle, “Comparative Studies of Nature in Eastern and Western States”, though the subtitle to the later work suggests a more humble goal: “Notes on the Natural History of a Summer Camp and a Winter Home”. In this post, I will explore these two volumes and consider the extent to which they accomplish such daring (well, in the first case, at least) comparative analyses.
There are shades of John C. Van Dyke throughout East and West. The very notion of a “comparative study” bespeaks Van Dyke. Then there is mention of “the opal sea”, a title of one of Van Dyke’s books. Finally, Kirkham is at his most poetic talking about the desert landscape, a section of the book where he seems almost to channel Van Dyke’s words and images. The timing certainly works: The Desert was first published in 1903, and The Opal Sea in 1906. These connections are all, as the police detective would remark, highly circumstantial, however. There is precious little online about Stanton Kirkham beyond the fact that he was a well-published author who is renowned as an ornithologist, naturalist, and philosopher. In the case of Van Dyke, I have a recently published copy of his autobiography, but Kirkham does not appear. All I can say is the two probably were not close associates. Perhaps they met, or perhaps Kirkham simply read Van Dyke’s books. Or perhaps not. Maybe they were both drawn to the allure of the desert landscape. “The desert,” Kirkham declared, “yields itself only to the mystic imagination.” Here are two examples of Kirkham’s mystical desert encounters:
Day after day, looking between the green columns of the saguaro, afar off towards the MacDowell Peaks, I have felt the spell of the desert. It has seemed to draw me like some entrancing mirage—a beautiful region, ethereal and opalescent and changeful. There is a sense of the desert as there is a sense of thesea: a spell, a witchery, which is like music, like poetry, is perhaps itself music and poetry in another form.
After a solitary vigil from starlight to starlight, I returned that night, impressed above all with the deceptiveness of the desert: I had discovered what a delusion it is. Yet, looking at it next day from my lava peak— lying so soft and opalescent in the distance —it beckoned as before, as beautiful and alluring and as full of enchantment as ever; and though arguing to myself that it was only distance lent it beauty, I felt its spell was not broken—would never be broken. Day after day it lures with its beautiful wiles, wrapped in mystery as profound as ever, in spite of my erstwhile disillusionment and a critical analysis of the facts. The desert ever refuses to be weighed in the balance of fact and of logic. While you reason and ponder, it weaves its spell around and around you, weaves it into the very fibre of your thought, until the sense is enmeshed and your little logic is forgotten—lost in that feeling for mystery and for beauty which the wonderful desert inspires.
Now having finished both volumes, I appreciate these passages even more. Only in the Arizona desert, it seems, was Kirkham able to engage with the landscape as a whole and evoke so richly a sense of place. Although his quest is to provide “a sense of certain regions“, more often than not his place accounts are filled with long descriptive lists of plants (in order of flowering) or birds (in order of appearance). At his best moments, Kirkham could dash off passages or phrases of philosophical insight and beauty. But at his worst, well, it was quite a slog. Bradford Torrey and Enos Mills could be delightful storytellers; Kirkham, on the other hand, rarely used the narrative form. Yes, there are many gems here, but only for the truly diligent reader. My copy of North and South had dozens of uncut pages. I was the first to read most of it since it was published in 1913. Yikes.
What, ultimately, is he able to say about the differences between natural regions in the United States? “Broadly speaking,” Kirkham announced on page 9 of East and West, “the charm of the East is pastoral, of the West, heroic.” He goes on to describe how the West is a land of open spaces, vast distances, and rich colors, a region that is “splendid, untamed, savage“. The “little green world of the East” on the other hand, inspires “gentle and cultured thoughts.” Western landscapes confront us with their wild distances, while Eastern habitats allure us with their cultured intimacy. If Kirkham had managed to carry this theme throughout his book, it might have been a minor masterpiece. Unfortunately, he revisits these ideas only once later in the volume, when he observes that “In the East, we do not know the enchantment which lies in distance.” Otherwise, the book largely functions as a gathering of place portraits, descriptions of natural settings like Cape Ann, Massachusetts, the woodlands of Long Island, and the Sonoran Desert in Arizona. And mostly, those descriptions involve birds and plants.
Before moving to Kirkham’s second effort at a comparative landscape study, North and South, a couple of features of the earlier work are worthy of note. One is Kirkham’s idea that returning to the wilderness allows us to connect with our primitive original selves:
In the wilderness, then, we return to our ancestral home—the earliest home of man—the memory of which was lost long before the beginning of history, but which inheres still in the cryptic depths of the subconscious mind of the race and, like an ancestral ghost, arises and flits before us in the depths of the forest.
At the same time, the past is the past, and progress dictates that what once was will be no longer. In his view, this law applies equally to reptiles and American Indians:
Serpent, alligator, and turtle are aliens to this biological day and the swamps and jungles are the reservations to which they are now confined. It is with them as it is with the American Indian, as it is with all primitive races: they have had their day and slowly but surely are passing from view.
Connecting the dots, if wilderness connects us to our biological past, and if remnants of that past are doomed to pass away, what does that mean about the ultimate fate of our wild places? But Kirkham manages to steer clear of that question. He does, quite keenly, note however that “Over a great part of the world man has become too dominant and saddens byhis desolating influence.” After sharing his rapture about masses of blooming wildflowers he saw on the hills of southern California, Kirkham added that “according to John Muir this is rapidly passing and no longer comparable to what it once was.” Like a few other nature writers of this time, it seems that Kirkham saw the horrible impacts of humans on natural places in America, yet stopped short of engaging in conservation advocacy to protect those places and their wildlife.
One other passage in East and West caught my attention. With shades of Jakob von Uexküll’s concept of Umwelt, Kirkham posits that to truly know birds, one has to become a bird in their imagination and experience the world as the bird might, not merely as a human looking at birds:
To go up and down the continent recognising, comparing and enjoying birds in this way is a resource which belongs, not to those who merely study birds, but rather to those who have the companionship of birds, and this pleasant intercourse comes not from reading human nature into their ways but—bird nature: acquiring a sympathy for bird traits and bird manners, a somewhat bird-like nature perhaps. You must feel yourself on the wing with the wild geese, or teetering on the shore with the sandpiper; diving with the grebe, or skulking through the marsh grass with the rail. You must peer among the leaves with the vireos, dart with the agile redstart, and with the finches know the peculiar satisfaction of scraping the bill on a twig.
On to Kirkham’s second volume in his directional pairing, North and South. Published in 1913, it is the oldest book in my collection that still has a relatively intact dust jacket. For those wondering why people didn’t tend to keep book dust jackets from back then, this is a great example. It looks more like a bit of temporary wrapping paper than something one might display proudly in a bookcase. As evident from the right photo, the book itself is only slightly less pedestrian in appearance. This time around, Kirkham gave himself a less daunting task. Instead of comparing the North and South in general, he restricted himself to a comparison of two specific places: a summer camp (a tumbledown wooden house-like structure, based upon the photos) on Canandaigua Lake in New York Finger Lakes region and a winter home at Milford Plantation, an antebellum mansion on the coastal plain of South Carolina (and now a historic site). He explained the purpose of his project thus:
Long ago I laid claim to the deserts and mountains of the West, to Northern woods and Southern swamps, and the best part of my life has been spent in making good these claims… Of these lakes and hills in western New York one is the proprietor to just that extent that he is able to respond to their beauty and make them companionable. To this end he must see them not only as a naturalist but as an artist; must look at them with the eye of a poet and a philosopher as well. Above all, he must live with the hills, day by day and year by year, in the sun and in the rain. He must be himself a hillman and a woodsman–and something of a wildman… During the winter the opportunity is afforded me again by the seclusion of the Milford woods and the great wilderness of contiguous swamp bordering the Wateree and the Santee. Here one can surely be alone with Nature and can hear what she has to say, provided he has ears. thsi Southern country is quite unlike that of the North and it is as if Dame Nature, while having much the same message, spoke in another dialect and with softer accent. It is necessary that one should understand her different dialects if he is to be on intimate footing which alone makes possible the higher Nature study, and which slips insensibly, as the intimacy and understanding increase, into something not to be characterized as study at all but rather as companionship, a companionship of such sylvan and unworldly character as to ally it with both poetry and religion.
Does Kirkham leave the reader with an abiding sense of the nature of these two places in the North and the South? He certainly demonstrates considerable knowledge of the plant life and birds encountered at each place (at least, during the part of the year he was there). And he dabbled in a bit of landscape history of the Finger Lakes, explaining how the lakes were glacially carved. He even integrated a bit of culture in the form of a few pages about the Seneca Indians, a people he was wont to disparage in his book (page 112 offering the reader a particularly egregious passage). Ultimately, though, he simply concluded that he had achieved the deep connection he wanted, “And because of this intimacy he has the supreme satisfaction of feeling at home wherever he might be, of being truly able to say–This is my country.” But did he truly believe that, or was he writing to convince himself?
What drove Kirkham to yearn for such intimate companionship with nature in the first place? I suspect it was more than simply a personal quest or narrative trope to provide a theme for two books. Kirkham’s wife of only four years, Mary Clark Williams, died on April 10th, 1911. Kirkham never remarried. He never mentions her in these books, but I cannot help but think he was haunted by her absence. It is as if he yearned for Dame Nature to fill an empty place in his heart. In these books, he presents himself as semi-nomadic, shifting with the seasons, and struggling to find a lasting sense of home. “One must become very much at home in Nature,” he explains to the reader, “if he is to become an interpreter of Nature.” Ironically, that was not to be. A year later, while on a horseback trip across South America, he contracted an illness that left him semi-invalid for the remainder of his life. He went on to publish only a few more books, including a volume of his memories of travels around the world by cruise ship. His last book, fittingly, was entitled Shut-In (1936). He died in New York City eight years later and was buried beside his wife in Woodlawn Cemetery, Canandaigua, New York. Kirkham had found a home at last.
