Jul 042020
 

The summit [of Mt. Wachusett] consists of a few acres, destitute of trees, covered with bare rocks, interspersed with blueberry bushes, raspberries, gooseberries, strawberries, moss, and a fine wiry grass. The common yellow lily, and dwarf cornel, grow abundantly in the crevices of the rocks. This clear space, which is gently rounded, is bounded a few feet lower by a thick shrubbery of oaks, with maples, aspens, beeches, cherries, and occasionally a mountain ash intermingled, among which we found the bright blueberries of the Solomon’s Seal, and the fruit of the pyrola. From the foundation of a wooden observatory, which was formerly erected on the highest point, forming a rude hollow structure of stone, a dozen feet in diameter, and five or six in height, we could dimly see Monadnock, rising in simple grandeur…..

from “A Walk to Wachusett” by H. D. Thoreau, 1842

The summit, reached just at noon, proved anything but attractive. Stripped of trees and bushes, it has been afflicted by a large and commonplace hotel, several barns and ugly sheds, and a bowling alley, billiard room, and tintype gallery. The north wind was polluted by the escaping odors of a cask of gasoline, and when we sought the groves below the crest, we encountered tin cans, broken bottles and other remains of previous seasons. When one seeks gasoline, electric bells, and a tintype gallery he has a right to feel pleased on finding them, but when I seek Nature on a mountain top and find her fettered by civilization, I have a right to feel aggrieved…. What first struck us was the number of fires which were contributing columns of blue smoke to [the] atmosphere…. Northward of the Berkshires the sky line was ragged with hills and distant mountains in Vermont and New Hampshire, even to the point where, rising serenely from its granite bed, Monadnock reared its noble head toward the heavens. It alone in all that smoky landscape was majestic.

from “Wachusett” by Frank Bolles, 1891

IT IS DIFFICULT TO READ FRANK BOWLES’ WORK WITHOUT THINKING OF THOREAU. While Bolles only mentions the sage of Concord a couple of times in his book, “Land of the Lingering Snow”, the spirit of Thoreau pervades it. A chronicle of Bolles’ outdoor nature encounters over the first half of a year, the book includes accounts of a trip to Cape Cod (visited several times by Thoreau) and a walk up Mt. Wachusett (also chronicled by Thoreau). Yet this connection only highlights the key difference between the experiences of the two authors; Thoreau inhabited the rural landscape of Concord in the mid-19th-century, while Bolles lived in the gritty industrialized landscape of Cambridge on the brink of the 20th century. Thoreau set out on a country walk to Wachusett, remarking on the bucolic scenery of the hop fields. Bolles set out by horse and carryall, remarking on the journey that

For the first four miles, the road was far from agreeable. We encountered rough pavements or dust, the obtrusive features of a young and by no means beautiful city, hillsides denuded of trees, and in many cases turned into quarries, the Nashua River defiled by mill-waste and stained by chemicals, railroad embankments coated with ashes and bare of verdure, and brick mill buildings, grim, noisy, and forbidding. The road gradually ascended, and at length crossed the river, passed under the railway and sought the woods. A parting glance down stream showed a mass of steeples, chimneys, brick walls, quarry derricks, freight cars, and dirty mill ponds flanked by wasted hillsides and overhung by a cloud of smoke. Between the smoke and the hurly-burly of the town a distant line of hills show out on the horizon. It was the promise of something purer above.

ALAS, BOLLES’ HOPE OF WACHUSETT AS EDEN WAS QUICKLY DASHED. Yet again, he looked to the horizon, and saw Monadnock in its grandeur. At least Monadnock yet remained, a symbol of that pure wild nature he craved.

IT IS DIFFICULT NOT TO THINK OF FRANK BOWLES AS A SOMEWHAT TRAGIC FIGURE. Like Thoreau, he was drawn to nature (particularly birds which, I suspect, he was better able to identify by plumage and song than Thoreau himself). He had a gift for reading stories in the snow or sand tracks of mammals and birds. But while I think of Thoreau as dying too young at the age of 47, Bolles died even younger, at the age of 38, of pneumonia. And many of the rural haunts of Thoreau were gone by Bolles’ day, transformed by industrial “progress” into mills and stone quarries. And while Thoreau is perhaps the most celebrated American environmental writer of all time, Frank Bolles has not even merited a Wikipedia entry yet. Partly I think this is due to the paucity of his work — two collections of nature essays: “Land of the Lingering Snow” (his outings in New England between January and June of a year) and “At the North of Bearcamp Water” (his wanderings between July and December), plus two posthumous volumes, one of poetry and the other of unpublished writings. All of his work is out of print now, unless you take into consideration the print-on-demand option and scanned copies available for free online.

AT THE SAME TIME, FRANK BOLLES STRIKES ME AS A NATURAL HISTORY WRITER I WOULD DEARLY LOVE TO HAVE MET. His youth, enthusiasm, and even humor (see his quote about the gasoline and electric bells on Wachusett, above) are quite winning. He is knowledgeable without being pretentious, keenly perceptive without being pedantic. He is humble and thoughtful. I admit that I do not care for his propensity for capturing baby owls from the wild and rearing them as pets. On the other hand, nowhere in the book does he mention hunting, though he catches quite a few trout for dinner one day. And like Robertson, Bolles is able to admire a snake and let it go: “Being given his freedom unhurt he rewarded us by some brilliant tree climbing, during which he glided up a trunk, in and out among branches, and along limbs from tree to tree. I hope he will do no harm during the new term of life which we gave him.”

PERHAPS BOLLES LACKED SOME OF THE LITERARY COMPLEXITY OF THOREAU. Yet in his simpler prose, there is much to wonder at and appreciate. Consider, for instance, his description of the effects of a rainstorm on the dune grasses:

As the wind blew the sand grass, its long blades whirled around, cutting circles in the sand with their tough tips and edges. These circles could be seen from a long distance, so deeply and clearly were they cut. Sometimes a long blade and a short one whirled on the same root and made concentric circles. The geometrical correctness of these figures made them striking elements in a landscape so chaotic as the dunes in the Equinoctial.

Then there is this peculiar bit of imaginative prose (a flight of fancy, one might call it) in which bluebirds generate goldfinches. The passage had been marked in pencil in my copy of the book, and further indicated by a torn piece of paper with the page number on it slipped into the book, so I feel compelled to share the passage here:

Over the brook stood an oak; in the oak sat a bluebird; from the bluebird’s inmost soul poured the sweetest of bird music, and, wonderful to relate, the music as it fell upon the air turned into goldfinches which undulated over the pasture, finally rested upon the oak and added their songs to the general join of the occasion. It may be said by harsh commentators that goldfinches never could have been made out of bluebirds’ music. Then the burden is on them to prove where the goldfinches come from, for to our eyes they came from the air, which had nothing in it except the song of the bluebird.

ULTIMATELY, BOLLES FOUND IN NATURE MUCH JOY AND PEACE, QUALITIES THE HUMAN WORLD DID NOT ALWAYS OFFER. After one walk through the woods and fields of eastern Massachusetts, Bolles remarked that “In all that day’s wandering I saw no sign of terror in any living thing that was not caused by man. Nature by herself is not all peace, by any means, but she is nearer to it than when man is present.” And ultimately, in the passage of the seasons Bolles chronicled in his two books, he even found meaning in mortality — meaning that I would like to think offered him solace during his final moments, dying of pneumonia in 1894:

As I look at this grass and the flowers which shine in its midst, at the myriad leaves upon the trees, at the butterflies, caterpillars, locusts, ants, and bees, and at the birds, solicitous for their eggs or young, should I be sorrowful because in a few days the annual tide of life will turn and the grass begin to ripen, the flowers to fade, the butterflies to die, and the birds to take note of the sky and begin their journey southward? No. The rhythm of the universe demands just this coming and going, rising and falling, expanding and contracting, living and dying. Without reaction there could be no action. Without death we should not know what life meant; without what we call sorrow there could be no joy.”

THOUGH FRANK BOLLES IS NEARLY FORGOTTEN TODAY, THERE REMAINS ONE MONUMENT TO HIM, OF WHICH HE WOULD BE QUITE PROUD. Frank Bolles had purchased land with an old farmhouse at the foot of Mt. Chocorua in the White Mountains of New Hampshire, and took his family there as often as he could. The region features in several of Bolles’ nature essays. In 1969, Bolles’ daughter, Evelyn Bolles Phenix, donated 247 acres to the Nature Conservancy; Frank Bolles Preserve is now open to all those seeking peace and solace in nature.

The Nature Conservancy, https://www.nature.org/en-us/get-involved/how-to-help/places-we-protect/frank-bolles-preserve/

BY WAY OF CLOSING, A FEW REMARKS ON MY BOOK. My copy is a “first edition” from 1891; I did find record on the website of ABE Books of a 4th edition that came out in 1895. The book is still together though the binding it showing signs of coming apart. There were no names or other words written anywhere in the book, though a couple of passages were marked with pencil. In addition to “Page 105” written on a torn piece of paper and slipped into the book, the volume also included an old newspaper clipping (possibly from the period of the book) with a poem by Bolles, The Whip-Por-Will. It was later published on page 61 of a posthumous volume of his poetry entitled “Chocorua’s Tenants”. The book has been scanned and may be viewed online here.

Jun 172020
 

I find the night, like the cup of Comus, “mixed with many murmurs.” First and the nearest at hand, the lively orchestration of the crickets (the later summer adds the fife of a grasshopper and the castanets of the katydid); then, in the distance, the regular, sonorous, or snoring antiphonies of the frogs at different points along the winding course of the creek. It would not surprise me to learn that these night musicians are systematically governed by the baton and metronome, so well do they keep time in the perplexing fugue movement which they are performing.

THANK GOODNESS FOR WIKIPEDIA, OR ELSE EDITH THOMAS WOULD HAVE LOST ME ON HER VERY FIRST LINE. Comus, it turns out, was the Greek god of festivities and revels. A god of excess, he represents anarchy and chaos. He was cup-bearer for Dionysus, Greek god of wine and fertility, so it is fairly easy to guess what Comus’ cup contained. Knowing this adds a contextual richness to Thomas’ imagery; the sense of chaos and wildness is juxtaposed with the “orchestration” of the “night musicians”. I glimpse a poet at work here.

EDITH THOMAS WAS FIRST AND FOREMOST A POET, FAMOUS IN HER DAY AND COMPLETELY FORGOTTEN NOW. Her poetry is tightly constructed, flowery, and ornate. Fortunately for her, and we in the 21st century, she also wrote a single book of nature essays, “The Round Year”, published in 1886. Written shortly after Thomas moved from her native northern Ohio to New York City (where she remained the rest of her life), the book is infused with a bittersweet longing for her home place. (“Who knows whether soul or body pines more for the familiar environment?” she asks in the book’s first essay. “Have wood, field, rock, and stream vested in us something of theirs? Or have we parted our spirit among them, that separation touches us so sorely?”) The title of her book comes from a poem by Emerson with these lines, “Cleave to thine acre; the round year / will fetch all fruits and virtues here.” In this, my third book journey, the pendulum has swung a full arc, from a scientist who seasoned her careful observations with a few poetic passages (Mary Treat) to a poetic rambler with a keen eye for birds and trees (Bradford Torrey) to a dedicated lifelong poet, well versed in literature and Greco-Roman mythology.

IT IS EASY SOMETIMES TO DROWN IN THOMAS’ LITERARY ALLUSIONS, WONDERING AT THE POINT OF IT ALL. There are certainly obstacles to accessing her work. By this, I mean not only the mythological thickets abounding in her prose but also her poetic flights of fancy that sometimes left me wondering if it all might be condensed to a pithy sentence or two instead. It is easy to write her off as lost in raptures of poetic fancy and musings of obscure myth, disconnected from nature. And then the minute I decide that, I find a passage that convinces me that she is, in fact, a perceptive observer of the natural world:

A strange servitude is this of the oak to the cynips, or gall-fly, in thus contributing of his substance to the housing and nourishment of his enemy’s offspring. The mischievous sylph selects sometimes the vein of a leaf, sometimes a stem, which she stings, depositing a minute egg in the wounded tissues. As soon, at least, as the egg hatches, the gall begins to form about the larva, simulating a fruity thriftiness, remaining green through the summer, but assuming at length the russet of autumn. The innocent acorn nature puts to bed as early as possible, that it may make a healthy, wealthy, and wise beginning on a spring morning; but the cradle that holds the gall-fly’s child she carelessly rocks above ground all winter.

THERE IS SCIENTIFIC ACCURACY HERE, THOUGH CLOTHED IN POETIC TRAPPINGS. Replace the sylph — an imaginary aerial spirit — with a wasp, and you have a fairly robust description of the formation of an oak gall. And sometimes Thomas’ poetic insights can even shift from being an obstacle to understanding to offering the reader a path toward an alternative way of encountering the world, a reminder that a successful scientist needs imagination and wonder, too. Consider this image:

Would you for a while shut out the earth and fill your eye with the heavens, lie down, some summer day, on the great mother’s lap., with a soft grass pillow under your head; then look around and above you, and see how slight, apparently, is your terrestrial environment, how foreshortened has become the foreground — only a few nodding bents of blossomed grass, a spray of clover with a bumble-bee probing for honey, and in the distance, perhaps the billowy outline of the diminished woods. What else you see is the blue of heaven illimitably stretched above and beyond you. You seem to by lying not so much on the surface of earth as at the bottom of the sky.

Consider, too, this lovely blending of mathematics and flowing water:

In cooler and deeper retirement, on languid summer afternoons, this flowing philosopher sometimes geometrizes. It is always of circles — circles intersecting, tangent, or inclusive. A fish darting to the surface affords the central starting-point of a circle whose radius and circumference are incalculable, since the eye fails to detect where it fades into nothingness. Multiplied intersections there may be, but without one curve marring the smooth expansion of another. There are hints of infinity to be gathered from this transient water-ring, as well as from the orb of the horizon at sea.

DESPITE THEIR DIFFERENCES IN WRITTEN VOICE, TREAT AND THOMAS SHARED MUCH COMMON GROUND. For instance, just as Treat studied nature in the field (the backyard or the further woods), so Thomas spoke strongly of the need to engage with living nature, instead of collecting dead specimens. On the very first page of “The Round Year”, for instance, she addressed the reader thus:

You come, eager and aggressive, on your specialist’s errand, whatever it may be — botany, ornithology, or other; you may take hence, perforce, a large number and variety of specimens, press the flower, embalm the bird; but a “dry garden” and a case of still-life are poor showings for the true natural history of flower or bird.

ANOTHER COMMON ELEMENT IS THAT BOTH WRITERS ENCOUNTERED A KINGFISHER AND DESCRIBED IT TO THE READER. A comparison of the two accounts provides further insight into their different approaches to observing birds. First, Mary Treat:

The belted kingfisher (Ceryle alycyon) is another familiar bird that frequents the grounds. His name indicates his occupation, and a very successful fisher he is. His fishing-post is on the railing that runs along the wharf. The wharf extends from the grounds about two hundred and fifty feet into the river. Whether he remains at this post the entire year I do not know; we find him here upon our arrival, and leave him here when we depart for the North. I am inclined to think that his permanent residence; at all events, he objects to being disturbed, as if he had been sole manager too long to yield the ground without a loud protest. If more than one person geos upon the wharf, he leaves with a clang and clatter which sound like a watchman’s rattle. and usually flies to the terrace, and alights upon a small tree bending over the water, where he can overlook and watch proceedings. But he does not seem to be afraid of one person alone; if I go upon the wharf unaccompanied, he flits along before me, alighting upon the railing, often not more than fifteen or twenty feet distant, and faces about as if to intimidate me. Seeing this I quietly drop upon a seat; for really, with his rumpled crest and fierce-looking black eyes, he looks rather formidable, being a foot or more in length. Seeming to be satisfied that I am under subjection, he goes on with his fishing, in which he is very expert. Motionless he eyes the finny tribes beneath him until one of their number comes within his range to suit his taste, when he dives under the water and brings it up; and now beating it upon the railing until it is quite limp, he swallows it. Small fish-scales are scattered along the entire length of the railing, where he has dressed his fish preparatory to taking his meals.

And now a very different account of a kingfisher (likely a different species, one found along Lake Erie in Ohio) from the pen of Edith Thomas:

There were fish taken under my observation, though not by line or net. I did not fish, yet I felt warranted in sharing the triumphs of the sport when, for the space of ten minutes or more, I had maintained most cautious silence, while that accomplished angler, the kingfisher, perches on a stately elm branch over the water, was patiently waiting the chance of an eligible haul. I had, meanwhile, a good opportunity for observing this to me wholly wild and unrelated adventurous bird. Its great head and mobile crest, like a helmet of feathers, its dark blue glossy coat and white neck-cloth, make it a sufficiently striking individual anywhere. No wonder the kingfisher is specially honored by poetic legend. I must admit that whenever I chanced to see this bird about the stream it was faultless, halcyon weather.

IT IS AMAZING TO THINK THAT BOTH AUTHORS ARE ENCOUNTERING THE SAME BIRD. I have to confess that Treat’s kingfisher strikes me as far more believable than Thomas’s. Perhaps that is in part because Treat sought to interact with the kingfisher, while Thomas instead watched it quietly from a distance. Treat’s kingfisher emerges as a unique character, while Thomas’s is inextricably part of a semi-mythical landscape, with one foot on an elm branch and the other lost in the mists of “poetic legend”.

AS A POSTSCRIPT, A FEW WORDS ABOUT MY PARTICULAR VOLUME. I managed to locate an 1886 copy, the first (and, I suspect, only) edition. It is an austere volume, bound in army gray without ornamentation apart from the title and author in gold on the spine. It was once Number 2973 at Belding Memorial Library but was stamped Discard at some point. Curious about where my book had been, I tracked down the library. There are two Belding Libraries. There is one in Michigan, but I do not think that is the correct one, since that is technically the Alvah N. Belding Library (in Belding, Michigan). More likely, this book was once held by the Belding Memorial Library in Ashfield, Massachusetts, pictured below.

Dec 282014
 

After another overnight rainfall, Piney Woods Church Road vegetation was again festooned with water droplets.  I peered into minute worlds and encountered magnificent jewels as I made my way from one end of the road to the other.  There are so many discoveries that still await….

 

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Dec 272014
 

From early this afternoon, while the sun still peaked through thickening clouds, I offer this lone image.  It is a different take on all of my tendril photos of late.  Rather than being a study of a single coil or pattern, it explores the act of coiling itself.  I find my eyes drawn all around this image, following the curving paths of the muscadine.

 

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Dec 252014
 

Christmas Day, and I enter the very last week of my project.  My time along Piney Woods Church Road is bittersweet; even as this pilgrimage nears its end, other journeys await.  For now, I pause in the stillness of a late afternoon in early winter.  I stop to look back down the road from which I came, and I see a mobile beside the road, where a single wisteria vine somehow became mostly detached, hanging  on by a single wooden strand.  In homage to this past week’s five-day black and white challenge (which I posted to Facebook, but not to this blog), I offer this image in black and white.

 

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Dec 242014
 

While I spent much of my walk along Piney Woods Church Road today gazing upward into the branches and leaves, I also found many marvelous treasures underfoot.  Here are four from my walk:  a grizzled grasshopper, minus one antenna; two roadside still-lifes with leaves and stones; and, from my walk home, a single leaf resting on the white line on the edge of the pavement along Rico Road.

 

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Dec 242014
 

It had been a night of heavy rain, and when I set out down Piney Woods Church Road early this afternoon, the air felt quite moist and the temperature an almost balmy upper 50s.  There was no trace of a breeze, and many water droplets still clung to the tendrils, branches, and leaves of all the plants edging the roadway.  I made my way slowly from one to the next, savoring plant growth transformed by the rain into artifacts of great beauty and wonder.  I share today more artifacts of the watery worlds that I encountered, including several images of Russian olives in fruit.

 

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Dec 172014
 

Every so often on my daily rambles, I encounter shapes in nature — usually leaves — that evoke some other image, such as an animal or human figure.  This happened many months ago, when I photographed a dark image that I titled, at my wife Valerie’s recommendation, “Strange Leaf”.  And today, as the seasons have swung back around into the months of shriveled, brown leaves, it has happened again.  Today I offer two such images, which I am calling “Leaf Puppets”.  The first is a pair of dried wisteria leaves evocative of human figures, both suspended by their stems along the road bank.  The second is a nearby sweetgum leaf, conjuring in my mind an image of a swan in flight.  If you do not imagine the same, that is OK, too.  The folds of the leaves and the patterns of light and dark, focus and blur, are inviting by themselves.

 

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Dec 162014
 

This time of year, the green leaves stand out along Piney Woods Church Road, when most every plant has withered to some shade of buff brown.  In this case, the plant is likely Japanese honeysuckle — a truly nasty invasive that is slowly choking my (former) flower garden and shrubs.  Still, I find this single leaf, illuminated by afternoon sunlight, entrancing.  I nearly overlooked it completely — I took just two photos of it, one of which was out of focus.  I had every intention of choosing to highlight something else from my walk.  But reviewing the images at home now, this is the one that most captivates me from my daily journey.

 

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